In Salzburg, he's the big fish. In a fairytale city of 145,000 population with a large castle looking down on the old town, Mozart's Geburtshaus (birthhouse) brings throngs to the inner city. It's on the third floor apartment at No. 9 Getreidegasse, that the Mozart saga begins.

Then, like now, the street was a narrow lane of intimate shops. Both Wolfgang (christened Johannes Chrysotomus Wolfgangus Theophilus) and his sister Maria Anna (nicknamed Nannerl) were born in this house now containing relics, instruments, pictures and manuscripts.

The ghost of Mozart stalks every corridor, every alleyway, every intimate concert site in the city. The Salzburg Festival is held every summer in a theatre complex near St. Peters Abbey whose cemetery has the remains of Nannerl and Johann Michael Haydn. One of Wolfgang's watering holes was the Sternbrau at 34 Greisgasse, a regular stopping off spot when he was old enough and where locals still gather.

And the Peterskeller, near St. Peters Church, is one of Salzburg's best known eating and wine spots - dating from when the Monks at St. Peters Monastery had their own wine cellar and started selling both food and wine in the 17th Century. Wolfgang and Michael Haydn tipped a few here.

In Vienna, the old town area is strewn with memories of Mozart's life - restaurants he frequented, the church in which he was married, his homes. The buildings, the streets, the ghosts of a Vienna that long ago ceased to exist are still locked in time.

Take the elevator to the observation platform in the North Tower of St. Stephen's Cathedral. Look down on the courtyards, the small streets, and the shops in the old city and you're seeing Mozart's town in its original form – give or take a few telephone lines.

Behind St. Stephen's Cathedral, at 5 Domgasse, is the Figaro House, the grandest of the 13 residences in which Mozart and his family lived. There, young Beethoven came for lessons and Haydn visited often.

And it was in this six-room apartment that he composed, among other works, 11 piano concertos and The Marriage Of Figaro.

On Vienna's outskirts is Schonbrunn Palace, summer home of the Hapsburgs, completed in 1713. You can tour 45 of the 1,441 rooms including the salon where a six year old Mozart performed for Queen Maria Theresa and climbed onto her lap and kissed her.

For a taste of what eating was like in Mozart's time, the Greichenbeisl on Fleishmarkt (No. 11) near the Danube Canal has been a public house since 1450 and is part of the oldest building in Vienna.

It's here that Pilsener Urquell, as any beer lover knows, was first brewed and where today you'll find Schubert's name still on the wall, where he engraved it, in one of the back rooms. Beethoven drank there, so did Wagner, Brahms, and of course, Mozart.

At the Staatsoper (State Opera House) Mozart's The Magic Flute is an ongoing production - part of 55 different stagings.

Mozart was buried in an unmarked grave in the Masonic way of the time, at the Cemetery of St. Mark. Chances are he's no longer there. Remains were removed every seven years and the site reused.